Bern’s Steak House
Daniel Johnnes
May 22, 2025
There is almost nothing I won’t do for dear old friends. This week I made an overnight trip to Florida to celebrate 3 birthdays. I normally would not go to Florida this time of year when the apple and cherry trees, peonies and tulips are all blooming and popping in and around New York.
We have made a tradition out of celebrating our 3 birthdays each 5 years apart. This year was special. One is turning 60, the other 65 and yours truly 70.
With time and ageability clearly a theme, we went to the place where one can still find great mature wine: Bern’s Steak House in Tampa.
Bern’s was started by Bern Laxer and his wife in 1956 and over time developed one of the greatest wine lists in the world, amassing close to a million bottles. His true passion was France but his eclectic taste brought him to collect wines from the iconic vineyards of the world. From Spain, Italy, Germany, Australia and the US. Not only did he have a taste for many different styles of wine but had a passion for the “terroir” and culture of the place. He has a fascinating collection of travelogue books with original pictures, tasting notes of wines, restaurant menus, landscapes and even road signs.
It is a living museum where upon entering the building you feel as if it could be 1950 or older.
However, the reason we went was for the kitsch AND above all, the wine list.
Starting of with a 1982 J.J. Prum Wehlener Sonnenuhr Spatlese was the perfect jump starter for the palate. Liquid gold with texture, a touch of residual sugar and brilliant juicy acidity. Next was perhaps the wine of the night, G. Barthod, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Charmes 1980. 1980 was one of those overlooked vintages that when stored perfectly (like at Bern’s) the fruit is still strong and the delicate flavors of mature pinot noir seduce the palate. Above all, the aromas of mature Burgundy is the holy grail we all strive for. Next was another wine of the night- Chateau Fonsalette 1984 Cotes du Rhone from Jacques Reynaud of Rayas and Pignan fame. This was another show stopper from another “off” vintage. Who has had a great 1984 outside of California??? This was spectacular. Still crunchy with the earthy flavors of grenache with silky tannins and balanced acidity.
After all that, we had to continue our journey into the past and always with vintages you never hear about. 1975 La Mouline, the single vineyard Cote Rotie from E. Guigal was surprisingly fresh and good, although a bit flat and not up to what I am looking for from La Mouline.
Last but not least, we discovered an Inglenook Charbono 1974, a legendary California vintage. I have to admit, I have never had a Charbono, nor did I even know what kind of grape it is. Apparently, it is a vinifera grape and is found in the Savoie region of France and in Argentina. It has somewhat brambly, spicy, plummy flavors with decent acidity which made me think of barbera. It was good but at that point, honestly, my palate wasn’t its sharpest which is why I had a pilsner to finish the night.
Overall, Bern’s is great but not as great as celebrating with 3 friends on a crazy excursion to Florida when my favorite flowers are blooming.
