When Mr. Dom perignon makes sake

Edouard Bourgeois
July 25, 2025

A few weeks ago, I had the unique opportunity to taste a beverage I rarely drink – sake! This ancient alcohol drink, with origins tracing back to ancient China around 4800 BC, was an eye-opening experience.

What made the tasting even more special was the presence of Richard Geoffroy. For those familiar with Champagne, his name might ring a bell, as he was responsible for crafting Dom Perignon for twenty-eight years. It was incredibly insightful to hear his vision for his new venture into sake-making in Japan. I was particularly surprised that someone known for producing high-acidity, rather low-alcohol Champagne would transition to sake, a beverage whose production process is closer to beer brewing than winemaking. Moreover, his sake, called IWA, is 15% alcohol with almost no acidity, on paper: the opposite of Champagne.

Richard Geoffroy

But one consistent element in Mr. Geoffroy's style is his precision and poetic mindset whether he works with grapes, or with rice. This trait aligns perfectly with the Japanese culture he adores. IWA sake is crafted from rice, koji (a type of mold), yeast, and water, using a unique brewing process. Shiraiwa, located in Tateyama (Toyama Prefecture), was chosen as IWA’s home for its breathtaking natural beauty, pristine soft snowmelt water, and deep roots in sake-making. The name IWA is derived from the brewery’s location, Shiraiwa, which translates to ‘white rock’, a reference to Champagne’s white chalk perhaps?

The contemporary kura (brewery) was designed by globally renowned architect Kengo Kuma, who drew inspiration from traditional Japanese long houses and the concepts of inclusivity and community, bringing everything under one roof.

For IWA, the number 5 symbolizes Assemblage, the art of blending. This is IWA's unique signature, with a new Assemblage crafted each year to showcase new facets and characteristics.

If you haven’t tasted IWA, I encourage wine people to give it a try. I found it to be compelling with a real soul and story to tell.