1996 in champagne. what happened?
by Edouard Bourgeois
November 21, 2025
Ratings for 1996 often use words like "exceptional" and "grandiose," with some comparisons to 1928. What made 1996 objectively unique was the high average potential alcohol (10.3%) combined with high total acidity (10g/litre)—figures rarely seen together. As Charles Philipponnat noted, this is a significant jump from the 9.3% potential alcohol common forty years prior.
Acidity and potential alcohol work together for balance, but typically, when one is high, the other is low. In 1996, both figures were high. Bruno Paillard called it a 'naughty boy' vintage due to its unpredictable nature and the anxiety it caused producers while waiting for acidity levels to drop. However, the result for those with patience is "fantastic."
While acidity is key for aging, the true test is time. Over two decades later, the remaining 1996 bottles reveal which producers succeeded. The best examples are still complex and alluring, where the high acidity is balanced by a wide range of aromas, from brioche to stone fruit. Unfortunately, some other bottlings show only residual acidity, resulting in unbalanced and tart wines.
I recall opening a glorious bottle of 1996 Cristal for my son's birth seven years ago; the wine was still vibrant and charged.
Another fabulous example was made by Krug. As Olivier Krug said, "It’s a year where a good house or a good winemaker will make a good wine... It’s a tricky vintage." Other industry professionals have shared similar sentiments, noting that some vintners either opted out of making a vintage bottling or failed to achieve balance, resulting in wines that are already clumsy or tired.
The 1996 vintage often draws comparisons to its predecessor, 1995. These were the last two great Champagne vintages following the 1988, 1989, and 1990 trio. The 1996s are powerful wines; the best combine weight from ripeness with tension from acidity, providing the interest, complexity, and structure needed for long-term aging.
Interestingly, more houses released 1995 as a vintage Champagne than 1996, with a ratio of roughly 60% (1995) to 40% (1996).
Given its unpredictability, the safest bet for 1996 Champagne remains to go with producers you trust.
While looking for pictures of 1996 Champagne on my IPhone, I also found several other wines from various regions where the 1996 vintage truly shone, as seen in images below;jbgories
News from the Vineyard
Aÿ Grand Cru "La Côte Linguard"
Aÿ is one of the 9 Grand Cru villages in the center of the Grande Vallée de la Marne. Considered like “the champagne of kings”, this region is known for producing very high quality and full-bodied champagnes. While Aÿ is most notable for its Pinot Noir (90% of the vines planted), you can also find some excellent Chardonnay.
Aÿ is not a homogeneous terroir, which is also part of its magic. This large area is composed of various folds of the slope across the hillside which create sites of different exposition and elevation. The blend of cretaceous chalk and sedimentary slope wash create subtle and complex wines that exhibit power and finesse. Peter Liem says (and I’m sure Daniel will agree) “if Aÿ were in Burgundy, it would be in Vosne-Romanée”.
Today, we highlight one lieux-dit in particular in Aÿ, "La Côte Linguard". In the northern part of Aÿ, in the extension of La Côte Faron and La Côte Aux Enfers, you will find this tiny area of La Côte Linguard. It is a historic vineyard which is part of the UNESCO classification.
Our dear friends and fervent supporters of La Fête du Champagne, Bérêche et Fils* recently acquired 1 ha (2.5 acres) which represents exactly 8,010 Pinot Noir Vines and 846 Chardonnay vines. They are extremely proud and excited to add this beautiful Grand Cru vineyard composed of massale selections vines, flush chalk and steep slopes to their impressive array of holdings. Those characteristics should create beautiful wines with a lot of tension and complexity. Cheers to Raphaël Bérêche and his family - we look forward to tasting the juice!!
Bérêche et Fils (NM)In the village of Ludes, in the northern portion of the Montagne de Reims, brothers Raphael and Vincent are quietly crafting sophisticated, terroir-expressive champagnes that are poised to rival the region’s best. Their 22 acres of vines are located in several sectors of Champagne with the three primary areas being the immediate vicinity around Ludes. A portion of the vines are farmed biodynamically, and about three quarters of the production is vinified in barrels with indigenous yeasts. Unusually, Bereche bottles a number of cuvées with cork rather than crown caps for the second fermentation, which Raphael thinks results in greater depth and complexity in their wines. NM stands for Negociant Manipulant.
Information courtesy of Peter Liem's Champagne book.
Credit photo @philippemartineau_foodart