1996 in champagne. what happened?
by Edouard Bourgeois
November 21, 2025
Ratings for 1996 often use words like "exceptional" and "grandiose," with some comparisons to 1928. What made 1996 objectively unique was the high average potential alcohol (10.3%) combined with high total acidity (10g/litre)—figures rarely seen together. As Charles Philipponnat noted, this is a significant jump from the 9.3% potential alcohol common forty years prior.
Acidity and potential alcohol work together for balance, but typically, when one is high, the other is low. In 1996, both figures were high. Bruno Paillard called it a 'naughty boy' vintage due to its unpredictable nature and the anxiety it caused producers while waiting for acidity levels to drop. However, the result for those with patience is "fantastic."
While acidity is key for aging, the true test is time. Over two decades later, the remaining 1996 bottles reveal which producers succeeded. The best examples are still complex and alluring, where the high acidity is balanced by a wide range of aromas, from brioche to stone fruit. Unfortunately, some other bottlings show only residual acidity, resulting in unbalanced and tart wines.
I recall opening a glorious bottle of 1996 Cristal for my son's birth seven years ago; the wine was still vibrant and charged.
Another fabulous example was made by Krug. As Olivier Krug said, "It’s a year where a good house or a good winemaker will make a good wine... It’s a tricky vintage." Other industry professionals have shared similar sentiments, noting that some vintners either opted out of making a vintage bottling or failed to achieve balance, resulting in wines that are already clumsy or tired.
The 1996 vintage often draws comparisons to its predecessor, 1995. These were the last two great Champagne vintages following the 1988, 1989, and 1990 trio. The 1996s are powerful wines; the best combine weight from ripeness with tension from acidity, providing the interest, complexity, and structure needed for long-term aging.
Interestingly, more houses released 1995 as a vintage Champagne than 1996, with a ratio of roughly 60% (1995) to 40% (1996).
Given its unpredictability, the safest bet for 1996 Champagne remains to go with producers you trust.
While looking for pictures of 1996 Champagne on my IPhone, I also found several other wines from various regions where the 1996 vintage truly shone, as seen in images below;jbgories
News from the vineyard
July 21, 2020
By Justine Puaud
Lavaux, a stunning terraced vineyard
Mother Nature was generous with the region of Lavaux. Recognized as a world heritage site by UNESCO, the spectacular 830 hectares of terraced vineyards are facing the Léman lake (Lake Geneva) and offer exceptional weather conditions to make fantastic but still discreet wines. In fact, when you talk about the region of Lavaux, you mention the “3 suns” which are the sky, the Léman lake and the terraces. This unique reflection of the water offers a very large variation of exposure, which give these wines their character.
Decades ago, the melting of the Rhône glacier created the unique terroir of Lavaux revealing different layers of soils which is quite similar of the one you find in Côte-Rotie. It is a diverse terroir composed of schist, granite and some puddingstone ( poudingue in French) which is a mix of cement and clay.
The main grape variety is Chasselas often called the “terroir sponge”. Huge differences can be noticed between plots that are right next to each other. It can be fruity, floral, earthy and delicate. In great vintages, after five or ten years, the wines develops aromas of honey, scents of walnut and a smooth texture which give the wines remarkable personality.
It is just the beginning of the véraison here. The Swiss will start picking the grapes around the first week of September.
In the village of Culy, facing the Lavaux vineyard and the Léman Lake.