1996 in champagne. what happened?
by Edouard Bourgeois
November 21, 2025
Ratings for 1996 often use words like "exceptional" and "grandiose," with some comparisons to 1928. What made 1996 objectively unique was the high average potential alcohol (10.3%) combined with high total acidity (10g/litre)—figures rarely seen together. As Charles Philipponnat noted, this is a significant jump from the 9.3% potential alcohol common forty years prior.
Acidity and potential alcohol work together for balance, but typically, when one is high, the other is low. In 1996, both figures were high. Bruno Paillard called it a 'naughty boy' vintage due to its unpredictable nature and the anxiety it caused producers while waiting for acidity levels to drop. However, the result for those with patience is "fantastic."
While acidity is key for aging, the true test is time. Over two decades later, the remaining 1996 bottles reveal which producers succeeded. The best examples are still complex and alluring, where the high acidity is balanced by a wide range of aromas, from brioche to stone fruit. Unfortunately, some other bottlings show only residual acidity, resulting in unbalanced and tart wines.
I recall opening a glorious bottle of 1996 Cristal for my son's birth seven years ago; the wine was still vibrant and charged.
Another fabulous example was made by Krug. As Olivier Krug said, "It’s a year where a good house or a good winemaker will make a good wine... It’s a tricky vintage." Other industry professionals have shared similar sentiments, noting that some vintners either opted out of making a vintage bottling or failed to achieve balance, resulting in wines that are already clumsy or tired.
The 1996 vintage often draws comparisons to its predecessor, 1995. These were the last two great Champagne vintages following the 1988, 1989, and 1990 trio. The 1996s are powerful wines; the best combine weight from ripeness with tension from acidity, providing the interest, complexity, and structure needed for long-term aging.
Interestingly, more houses released 1995 as a vintage Champagne than 1996, with a ratio of roughly 60% (1995) to 40% (1996).
Given its unpredictability, the safest bet for 1996 Champagne remains to go with producers you trust.
While looking for pictures of 1996 Champagne on my IPhone, I also found several other wines from various regions where the 1996 vintage truly shone, as seen in images below;jbgories
What's Pressoir Cooking?
July 14, 2020
by Daniel Johnnes
Cherry Pie - The King of Pies
Cherry pie is one of three of my favorite things, two of which are food. They are (in no particular order) cherry pie, English shell peas and peonies. All three have a very short period in which they are ripe and available. You have to act fast and grab them when they are at peak. Perhaps it is their fleeting beauty that increases my love of them.
I pride myself for making a great cherry pie. To say cherry pie is too simple, this is a sour cherry pie. The type of cherry makes all the difference. Like a great wine, the balance between sugar, acidity and texture is paramount. It has to be sweet but not too sweet. It is the underlying acidity that balances the sweetness. Like in a great German Riesling. With many grams of residual sugar, it is the bracing acidity that pulls it all into harmony.
So it is with my cherry pie. The tart acidity in the sour cherries (griottes in French) provides the backbone and energy required to keep it from being heavy and cloying.
Making it is really simple. It just takes technique. This particular one was challenging as I made it in a beach cottage rental. A kitchen and oven I wasn't familiar with and almost no equipment. No mixer, no traditional pie plate, no rolling pin.
Here's the recipe:
The pie crust
2 1/2 cups flour
1 tablespoon sugar
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 pound butter (2 sticks or 16 tablespoons)
Ice water
The filling
3 pints sour cherries (I only had two which explains it's slightly flat appearance)
3/4 cup sugar
1 1/2 Tablespoons tapioca
That's all. No almond extract like many people do. Why dilute perfection? Sometimes I add a little zest of orange.
Make the pie crust at least 6 hours prior to rolling.
Roll the bottom out to line a pie plate. I used a Bordeaux shaped bottle as I had no rolling pin. I had a bottle of Burlotto Pelaverga (delicious as well)
Fill the bottom with the cherry mixture and close with the top pie dough.
Cut vents in the crust and brush with egg wash
Bake in pre-heated oven at 350 degrees for about 50-60 minutes or until bubbling and brown.
Cool and then put in fridge to serve chilled.
The real quality test comes when I serve the first slice to Sally, my wife. She is THE champion pie maker in the family. If I get a satisfied sigh, I know I nailed it. This one got a sigh with one or two justified critical comments. Tough conditions but overall a resounding success nonetheless.
This is the Musigny or maybe the Amoureuses of pies.
Bon appétit!
