1996 in champagne. what happened?
by Edouard Bourgeois
November 21, 2025
Ratings for 1996 often use words like "exceptional" and "grandiose," with some comparisons to 1928. What made 1996 objectively unique was the high average potential alcohol (10.3%) combined with high total acidity (10g/litre)—figures rarely seen together. As Charles Philipponnat noted, this is a significant jump from the 9.3% potential alcohol common forty years prior.
Acidity and potential alcohol work together for balance, but typically, when one is high, the other is low. In 1996, both figures were high. Bruno Paillard called it a 'naughty boy' vintage due to its unpredictable nature and the anxiety it caused producers while waiting for acidity levels to drop. However, the result for those with patience is "fantastic."
While acidity is key for aging, the true test is time. Over two decades later, the remaining 1996 bottles reveal which producers succeeded. The best examples are still complex and alluring, where the high acidity is balanced by a wide range of aromas, from brioche to stone fruit. Unfortunately, some other bottlings show only residual acidity, resulting in unbalanced and tart wines.
I recall opening a glorious bottle of 1996 Cristal for my son's birth seven years ago; the wine was still vibrant and charged.
Another fabulous example was made by Krug. As Olivier Krug said, "It’s a year where a good house or a good winemaker will make a good wine... It’s a tricky vintage." Other industry professionals have shared similar sentiments, noting that some vintners either opted out of making a vintage bottling or failed to achieve balance, resulting in wines that are already clumsy or tired.
The 1996 vintage often draws comparisons to its predecessor, 1995. These were the last two great Champagne vintages following the 1988, 1989, and 1990 trio. The 1996s are powerful wines; the best combine weight from ripeness with tension from acidity, providing the interest, complexity, and structure needed for long-term aging.
Interestingly, more houses released 1995 as a vintage Champagne than 1996, with a ratio of roughly 60% (1995) to 40% (1996).
Given its unpredictability, the safest bet for 1996 Champagne remains to go with producers you trust.
While looking for pictures of 1996 Champagne on my IPhone, I also found several other wines from various regions where the 1996 vintage truly shone, as seen in images below;jbgories
What's Pressoir Cooking?
April 4, 2023
by Justine Puaud
Asparagus
A sure sign of spring
While asparagus is usually found year-round, like most produce, it has a peak season. Asparagus season usually starts around late February and goes until June, with the peak months in April and May, so I thought I would share a simple recipe with a mousseline sauce.
While I find delicious white asparagus in Beaune’s farmers market, I remember that in the U.S white asparagus are not common and you will more easily find green asparagus, equally good.
Green asparagus with mousseline sauce
Ingredients for 4 people
2 bunches of green asparagus
1 egg
1 handful of hazelnuts
5 sprigs of tarragon
5 sprigs of chervil
1 tablespoon of mustard (a strong Dijon mustard)
sunflower oil
salt and pepper
Instructions
Cut the base of the asparagus which is a little too woody. Rinse and cook them for about 4 to 5 minutes or until tender in a large pan of boiled salted water. Immediately rinse them under cold water to stop the cooking quickly or plunge in a bowl of ice water. Drain and let cool on absorbent paper.
Separate the white from the yolk of the egg. Whisk the yolk with mustard, salt and pepper, add the sunflower oil, until you get a nice mayonnaise consistency. Add the chopped herbs into the preparation.
Roast the hazelnuts in a dry pan for 2 minutes then crush them with a knife.
Whisk the egg white with a pinch of salt and gently fold it into the mayonnaise.
Serve asparagus topped with the mousseline sauce and sprinkled with crushed hazelnuts and voilà!
Many sommeliers will say asparagus and wines are not close friends but I think a crisp mineral Chardonnay like a Saint-Romain will pair perfectly with this recipe. I recently discovered Domaine Henri & Gilles Buisson and absolutely loved their Saint-Romain. “Sous la Velle”.
Did you know?
In Burgundy, you will find another variety of asparagus named “L’Asperge des Bois”. It looks like a small ear of almond green wheat. It is picked before it blooms, a pompom of white flowers. Most often wild asparagus grow in "bands", when there is one, there are plenty .. I particularly found it in a deciduous forest, in the undergrowth, towards the wet and shaded meadows. You can just cook it simply, roasted with olive oil and garlic.