1996 in champagne. what happened?
by Edouard Bourgeois
November 21, 2025
Ratings for 1996 often use words like "exceptional" and "grandiose," with some comparisons to 1928. What made 1996 objectively unique was the high average potential alcohol (10.3%) combined with high total acidity (10g/litre)—figures rarely seen together. As Charles Philipponnat noted, this is a significant jump from the 9.3% potential alcohol common forty years prior.
Acidity and potential alcohol work together for balance, but typically, when one is high, the other is low. In 1996, both figures were high. Bruno Paillard called it a 'naughty boy' vintage due to its unpredictable nature and the anxiety it caused producers while waiting for acidity levels to drop. However, the result for those with patience is "fantastic."
While acidity is key for aging, the true test is time. Over two decades later, the remaining 1996 bottles reveal which producers succeeded. The best examples are still complex and alluring, where the high acidity is balanced by a wide range of aromas, from brioche to stone fruit. Unfortunately, some other bottlings show only residual acidity, resulting in unbalanced and tart wines.
I recall opening a glorious bottle of 1996 Cristal for my son's birth seven years ago; the wine was still vibrant and charged.
Another fabulous example was made by Krug. As Olivier Krug said, "It’s a year where a good house or a good winemaker will make a good wine... It’s a tricky vintage." Other industry professionals have shared similar sentiments, noting that some vintners either opted out of making a vintage bottling or failed to achieve balance, resulting in wines that are already clumsy or tired.
The 1996 vintage often draws comparisons to its predecessor, 1995. These were the last two great Champagne vintages following the 1988, 1989, and 1990 trio. The 1996s are powerful wines; the best combine weight from ripeness with tension from acidity, providing the interest, complexity, and structure needed for long-term aging.
Interestingly, more houses released 1995 as a vintage Champagne than 1996, with a ratio of roughly 60% (1995) to 40% (1996).
Given its unpredictability, the safest bet for 1996 Champagne remains to go with producers you trust.
While looking for pictures of 1996 Champagne on my IPhone, I also found several other wines from various regions where the 1996 vintage truly shone, as seen in images below;jbgories
News from the vineyard 6/12/20
6/12/20
by Edouard Bourgeois
It is a busy week for the Bordelais as they just started the Primeurs!
by Edouard Bourgeois
It is a busy week for the Bordelais as they just started the Primeurs!
As you may know, in Bordeaux a ‘vente en primeur’ is the sale of a grand cru classé wine before the final product has been finalized. The wines are then matured for 18 months in barrels inside the storehouses. This tradition ties the Château to the merchant. The Château ensures that its cash flow is guaranteed and buyers can obtain a discount on the final price of the wine, which is only marketed two years later.
It's been a rough last couple years for Bordeaux between Brexit, the Hong Kong protests and of course now, Covid-19. The global export has plummeted while, ironically, Mother Nature has been quite generous with around 660 million bottles produced on average in 2018 and 2019. Automatically today, Bordeaux is sitting on a lot of wine to sell. Although received with great enthusiasm by the press and collectors, the 2018 vintage already suffered a weak "En Primeur" campaign. 2019' campaign is not so much more flamboyant with Château Pontet-Canet setting the pace, selling its 5th growth Pauillac 68 euros a bottle, a 30% decrease from the 2018 vintage...
The pandemic obviously is not helping, forcing the Châteaux to plan a different strategy by sending samples all around the world and limiting the number of clients during tastings in their cellar.
Is it the right time to buy and drink more Bordeaux?
What's Pressoir Drinking? Château Brane-Cantenac 1959
Edouard tastes a 1959 Margaux from Château Brane-Cantenac.
6/12/20
by Edouard Bourgeois
Defying time...
While Fidel Castro was taking power in Cuba and the first Barbie dolls were made, the Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot grapes in this bottle were patiently maturing under the generous sun of the Gironde during this exceptional Bordeaux vintage. Like an old and wise grandmother, this bottle was a little bit tired but still had wit and a nice story to tell.