1996 in champagne. what happened?

 
Logo icon square.png
 

by Edouard Bourgeois
November 21, 2025

Ratings for 1996 often use words like "exceptional" and "grandiose," with some comparisons to 1928. What made 1996 objectively unique was the high average potential alcohol (10.3%) combined with high total acidity (10g/litre)—figures rarely seen together. As Charles Philipponnat noted, this is a significant jump from the 9.3% potential alcohol common forty years prior.

Acidity and potential alcohol work together for balance, but typically, when one is high, the other is low. In 1996, both figures were high. Bruno Paillard called it a 'naughty boy' vintage due to its unpredictable nature and the anxiety it caused producers while waiting for acidity levels to drop. However, the result for those with patience is "fantastic."

While acidity is key for aging, the true test is time. Over two decades later, the remaining 1996 bottles reveal which producers succeeded. The best examples are still complex and alluring, where the high acidity is balanced by a wide range of aromas, from brioche to stone fruit. Unfortunately, some other bottlings show only residual acidity, resulting in unbalanced and tart wines.

I recall opening a glorious bottle of 1996 Cristal for my son's birth seven years ago; the wine was still vibrant and charged.

Another fabulous example was made by Krug. As Olivier Krug said, "It’s a year where a good house or a good winemaker will make a good wine... It’s a tricky vintage." Other industry professionals have shared similar sentiments, noting that some vintners either opted out of making a vintage bottling or failed to achieve balance, resulting in wines that are already clumsy or tired.

The 1996 vintage often draws comparisons to its predecessor, 1995. These were the last two great Champagne vintages following the 1988, 1989, and 1990 trio. The 1996s are powerful wines; the best combine weight from ripeness with tension from acidity, providing the interest, complexity, and structure needed for long-term aging.

Interestingly, more houses released 1995 as a vintage Champagne than 1996, with a ratio of roughly 60% (1995) to 40% (1996).

Given its unpredictability, the safest bet for 1996 Champagne remains to go with producers you trust.

While looking for pictures of 1996 Champagne on my IPhone, I also found several other wines from various regions where the 1996 vintage truly shone, as seen in images below;jbgories

What's Pressoir drinking? Daniel Johnnes What's Pressoir drinking? Daniel Johnnes

What's Pressoir Drinking? Bouchard Père & Fils, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru 1955 en magnum

by Daniel Johnnes
Wednesday, February 3, 2021

by Daniel Johnnes
Wednesday, February 3, 2021

I haven't had very many memorable birth year wines. But this one stands out as one of the best I've tasted from that vintage and one of the most beguiling wines ever for that matter. It was served to me as a guest of Bouchard Pere et Fils at their residence (Chateau) in Beaune. Their collection of mature vintage wines remains unrivaled anywhere in Burgundy, with close to 2 million bottles in their cellar going back to 1846 (Meursault-Charmes which I was also lucky to taste). This Corton-Charlemagne, served from a magnum, drew gasps when opened as the color was light for its age with hints of gold highlights. The aroma is impossible to describe as it was different every time I brought the glass to my nose. Some of the adjectives bantered about were lemon zest confit, frangipane, orange marmalade, caramel, honey. It would vacillate between youthful floral notes and mature, aged white Burgundy. I have never experienced a kaleidoscope of aromas and flavors from a wine one would consider on the decline. This wine is alive and continuing to evolve just as a person (hopefully) becomes more complex and wise over time. Merci Bouchard Pere et Fils for sharing this magnificent bottle with us.

Image from iOS (14).jpg
 
Read More
What's Pressoir drinking? Max Goldberg Liu What's Pressoir drinking? Max Goldberg Liu

What's Pressoir Drinking? Domaine Tollot-Beaut, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru 1991

Tollot-Beaut Corton-Charlemagne 1991.jpg

May 6, 2020
by Raj Vaidya

A rare treat to taste a perfectly stored older bottle of white Burgundy in great shape. The wine had terrific vibrancy and finesse, with all the lemon curd acidity of Corton Charlemagne and the saltiness too. Great length! Tollot-Beaut 1991, with scallop ceviche and grilled langoustines for a delicious Sunday supper.

Read More