1996 in champagne. what happened?

by Edouard Bourgeois
November 21, 2025

Ratings for 1996 often use words like "exceptional" and "grandiose," with some comparisons to 1928. What made 1996 objectively unique was the high average potential alcohol (10.3%) combined with high total acidity (10g/litre)—figures rarely seen together. As Charles Philipponnat noted, this is a significant jump from the 9.3% potential alcohol common forty years prior.

Acidity and potential alcohol work together for balance, but typically, when one is high, the other is low. In 1996, both figures were high. Bruno Paillard called it a 'naughty boy' vintage due to its unpredictable nature and the anxiety it caused producers while waiting for acidity levels to drop. However, the result for those with patience is "fantastic."

While acidity is key for aging, the true test is time. Over two decades later, the remaining 1996 bottles reveal which producers succeeded. The best examples are still complex and alluring, where the high acidity is balanced by a wide range of aromas, from brioche to stone fruit. Unfortunately, some other bottlings show only residual acidity, resulting in unbalanced and tart wines.

I recall opening a glorious bottle of 1996 Cristal for my son's birth seven years ago; the wine was still vibrant and charged.

Another fabulous example was made by Krug. As Olivier Krug said, "It’s a year where a good house or a good winemaker will make a good wine... It’s a tricky vintage." Other industry professionals have shared similar sentiments, noting that some vintners either opted out of making a vintage bottling or failed to achieve balance, resulting in wines that are already clumsy or tired.

The 1996 vintage often draws comparisons to its predecessor, 1995. These were the last two great Champagne vintages following the 1988, 1989, and 1990 trio. The 1996s are powerful wines; the best combine weight from ripeness with tension from acidity, providing the interest, complexity, and structure needed for long-term aging.

Interestingly, more houses released 1995 as a vintage Champagne than 1996, with a ratio of roughly 60% (1995) to 40% (1996).

Given its unpredictability, the safest bet for 1996 Champagne remains to go with producers you trust.

While looking for pictures of 1996 Champagne on my IPhone, I also found several other wines from various regions where the 1996 vintage truly shone, as seen in images below;jbgories

Edouard Bourgeois 1/13/22 Edouard Bourgeois 1/13/22

What's Pressoir Drinking - Champagne Agrapart & Fils Avizoise 2005

What’s Pressoir Drinking

by Edouard

1/12/22

January 12, 2022
by Edouard Bourgeois
I have had few experiences with the Champagne of Pascal Agrapart but they have always been memorable. The superior wines of this producer from Avize in the Côte des Blancs are not easy to find, but always worth the effort.

That bottle of “Avizoise”, a pure Blanc de Blancs with minimum sugar dosage, was very expressive and a great companion for the many different dishes I had that night. It makes you reconsider the belief that Blanc de Blancs should only be paired with lighter appetizers. My wife had cooked a juicy filet mignon of pork that night and with the glazed root vegetables and the rich veal jus, this Chardonnay was a really talented performer.

Among the seven cuvées produced at Agrapart, “Avizoise” is considered to be the most powerful. Pascal Agrapart works with some of the oldest vines in the village and represents the fourth generation to run the domaine, founded in the late 19th century. Amboise Agrapart, Pascal's oldest son, recently joined his father at the domaine. Together they manage nine and a half hectares of predominantly Chardonnay vineyards, the vast majority of which are Grand Cru, in the heart of the Côte de Blancs (primarily in the villages of Avize, Oger, Cramant and Oiry).

Often and rightfully so, these great Champagnes from the Cote des Blancs are compared to the best white Burgundy. Not only do they share the same grape variety, but the soil is somewhat comparable. The bedrock of limestone in Burgundy finds its equivalent in Champagne’s unique chalk, while the various amounts of clay give the final makeup of the soil. “Avizoise” is, not surprisingly, produced from a terroir that is rich in clay, hence its power.

One last element that distinguishes Pascal’s work is the use of large 600 liter oak vessels. Although the use of wood in Champagne is seeing some kind of trend, it is people like him or his revered neighbor Anselme Selosse who really excel in that practice.