1996 in champagne. what happened?
by Edouard Bourgeois
November 21, 2025
Ratings for 1996 often use words like "exceptional" and "grandiose," with some comparisons to 1928. What made 1996 objectively unique was the high average potential alcohol (10.3%) combined with high total acidity (10g/litre)—figures rarely seen together. As Charles Philipponnat noted, this is a significant jump from the 9.3% potential alcohol common forty years prior.
Acidity and potential alcohol work together for balance, but typically, when one is high, the other is low. In 1996, both figures were high. Bruno Paillard called it a 'naughty boy' vintage due to its unpredictable nature and the anxiety it caused producers while waiting for acidity levels to drop. However, the result for those with patience is "fantastic."
While acidity is key for aging, the true test is time. Over two decades later, the remaining 1996 bottles reveal which producers succeeded. The best examples are still complex and alluring, where the high acidity is balanced by a wide range of aromas, from brioche to stone fruit. Unfortunately, some other bottlings show only residual acidity, resulting in unbalanced and tart wines.
I recall opening a glorious bottle of 1996 Cristal for my son's birth seven years ago; the wine was still vibrant and charged.
Another fabulous example was made by Krug. As Olivier Krug said, "It’s a year where a good house or a good winemaker will make a good wine... It’s a tricky vintage." Other industry professionals have shared similar sentiments, noting that some vintners either opted out of making a vintage bottling or failed to achieve balance, resulting in wines that are already clumsy or tired.
The 1996 vintage often draws comparisons to its predecessor, 1995. These were the last two great Champagne vintages following the 1988, 1989, and 1990 trio. The 1996s are powerful wines; the best combine weight from ripeness with tension from acidity, providing the interest, complexity, and structure needed for long-term aging.
Interestingly, more houses released 1995 as a vintage Champagne than 1996, with a ratio of roughly 60% (1995) to 40% (1996).
Given its unpredictability, the safest bet for 1996 Champagne remains to go with producers you trust.
While looking for pictures of 1996 Champagne on my IPhone, I also found several other wines from various regions where the 1996 vintage truly shone, as seen in images below;jbgories
What's Pressoir Drinking
What’s Pressoir dinking
by Edouard
9/21/22
Domaine Dujac Clos la Roche 1988
September 21, 2022
Edouard Bourgeois
Most of the Côte d’Or villages produce wines with a certain signature, or style. Chambolle-Musigny often produced wines described as elegant, lean and perfumed while Gevrey-Chambertin embodies the power and structure Pinot Noir may be capable to express. Between these two communes lies Morey-Saint-Denis, a somewhat misunderstood village, where the wines made are not easy to classify or describe in broad, general terms. I really agree with a common belief that Morey-Saint Denis vineyards will tend to borrow the characteristic of the appellation they’re close to, Gevrey to the north or Chambolle to the south. With seven Grands Crus climats, including a fascinating geological study of terres rouges and terres blanches in Bonnes Mares, wonderful wines are produced in the village each year. Among these Grands Crus is the Clos de la Roche, whose name can have an interesting story. As Laurent Ponsot, an important figure in the village explains, the name could derive from the flat rock in the vineyard that was once used for sacrifices during Druidical times…
Domaine Dujac was born in 1967 when Jacques Seysses bought Domaine Graillet in Morey-Saint-Denis. After an apprenticeship with legend Gérard Potel of Domaine de la Pousse d’Or and with inspiration from his idols Charles Rousseau, Henri Gouges and Aubert de Villaine, Jacques released his first vintage under the label Domaine Dujac with the glorious 1969 harvest. 1968 was technically the first year he vinified; unfortunately it happened to be a mediocre vintage, sold off in bulk. The domaine quickly gained the recognition it deserved and is today considered to be among the very finest in the world.
Organic farming has been intensely developed since 2001 with biodynamic experiments. The domaine has also historically been known for a generous inclusion of stems during the winemaking. Jacques explains that using whole bunches helps keep the fruit intact, without bruising the berries and obviously the style of wine it produces - typically lighter colored but fragrant and delicate is what he adores. Typically lighter in color, I’ve always found these wines to have a ballerina elegance. I had the chance to taste an incredible bottle of Dujac Clos la Roche 1988 (note a different spelling here as the domaine changed to Clos de la Roche with the 1991 vintage) and this wine had a feather touch while delivering impressive presence and so much life for a 34 year old wine.
Domaine Dujac bought their parcel of Clos de La Roche mostly from the initial 1968 acquisition of Domaine Graillet, adding some parcels in 1977 and 1990.
