1996 in champagne. what happened?
by Edouard Bourgeois
November 21, 2025
Ratings for 1996 often use words like "exceptional" and "grandiose," with some comparisons to 1928. What made 1996 objectively unique was the high average potential alcohol (10.3%) combined with high total acidity (10g/litre)—figures rarely seen together. As Charles Philipponnat noted, this is a significant jump from the 9.3% potential alcohol common forty years prior.
Acidity and potential alcohol work together for balance, but typically, when one is high, the other is low. In 1996, both figures were high. Bruno Paillard called it a 'naughty boy' vintage due to its unpredictable nature and the anxiety it caused producers while waiting for acidity levels to drop. However, the result for those with patience is "fantastic."
While acidity is key for aging, the true test is time. Over two decades later, the remaining 1996 bottles reveal which producers succeeded. The best examples are still complex and alluring, where the high acidity is balanced by a wide range of aromas, from brioche to stone fruit. Unfortunately, some other bottlings show only residual acidity, resulting in unbalanced and tart wines.
I recall opening a glorious bottle of 1996 Cristal for my son's birth seven years ago; the wine was still vibrant and charged.
Another fabulous example was made by Krug. As Olivier Krug said, "It’s a year where a good house or a good winemaker will make a good wine... It’s a tricky vintage." Other industry professionals have shared similar sentiments, noting that some vintners either opted out of making a vintage bottling or failed to achieve balance, resulting in wines that are already clumsy or tired.
The 1996 vintage often draws comparisons to its predecessor, 1995. These were the last two great Champagne vintages following the 1988, 1989, and 1990 trio. The 1996s are powerful wines; the best combine weight from ripeness with tension from acidity, providing the interest, complexity, and structure needed for long-term aging.
Interestingly, more houses released 1995 as a vintage Champagne than 1996, with a ratio of roughly 60% (1995) to 40% (1996).
Given its unpredictability, the safest bet for 1996 Champagne remains to go with producers you trust.
While looking for pictures of 1996 Champagne on my IPhone, I also found several other wines from various regions where the 1996 vintage truly shone, as seen in images below;jbgories
News from the Vineyard
by Daniel Johnnes
February 10, 2023
Domaine de la Grange des Pères
My quick trip to France this week was inspired by an invitation from the Vaillé family to come visit.
Vaillé owns Domaine de la Grange des Pères in the commune of Aniane in the Languedoc about 45 minutes north west of Montpellier.
My first stop was the fast train train to Lyon and a quick drive to Côte Rôtie to visit my friends, Guillaume, Brigitte and Gilbert Clusel-Roch. Brigitte and Gilbert are semi-retired although Gilbert’s preferred form of retirement is rebuilding the stone wall terraces around his vineyards. A quick click on their website will direct you to a Rolling Stones song “Don’t Stop” with Gilbert performing a Herculean task of reinforcing his century old walls.
Of course I can’t visit Clusel-Roch without timing it for lunch. This time, it was Brigitte’s classic blanquette de veau, accompanied by Côte Rôtie La Viaillère 2010 (2nd vintage).
Next stops were Julien Cecillon, Maxime Graillot and Jean Gonon. All three taking me further south on my journey to the Languedoc and the Vaillé residence, providing snapshots of both the 2022 and 2021 about to be bottled. Both good to excellent vintages with more depth and concentration in the 2022s, which does not necessarily mean better. 2021 is delicious and more approachable early.
I was full of emotion arriving in Aniane chez Vaillé. This is a property I visited in 1993 when his first vintage 1992 was still in barrel. I remember that visit like it was yesterday. We took a quick tour of the cellar and then spent a very long afternoon by the canal with my wife, Sally and our young 4 year old Lionel and one year old Barnaby.
Laurent, the genius behind the wines, had spent several years learning from the masterful Eloi Durrbach of Domaine de Trevallon (Baux de Provence) and Coche-Dury in Meursault. Laurent had to dynamite a hillside to plant his Syrah, Mourvèdre, Roussanne, Marsanne and a splash of Counoise, Chardonnay and Cabernet.
Over time, these wines achieved cult status and found their way onto the top tables of France and abroad.
Sadly, Laurent tragically died in the spring of 2021 and I had not been back until today. The wines are still magical, with deep rich flavors, yet light on their feet with fresh acidity, silky tannins and a hint of game.
These deep soulful wines never had a Languedoc appellation other than IGP Hérault or Vin de Pays de l’Hérault. Laurent did not want them to be associated with a place. They were and still are simply La Grange des Pères. May Laurent rest in peace.
