1996 in champagne. what happened?
by Edouard Bourgeois
November 21, 2025
Ratings for 1996 often use words like "exceptional" and "grandiose," with some comparisons to 1928. What made 1996 objectively unique was the high average potential alcohol (10.3%) combined with high total acidity (10g/litre)—figures rarely seen together. As Charles Philipponnat noted, this is a significant jump from the 9.3% potential alcohol common forty years prior.
Acidity and potential alcohol work together for balance, but typically, when one is high, the other is low. In 1996, both figures were high. Bruno Paillard called it a 'naughty boy' vintage due to its unpredictable nature and the anxiety it caused producers while waiting for acidity levels to drop. However, the result for those with patience is "fantastic."
While acidity is key for aging, the true test is time. Over two decades later, the remaining 1996 bottles reveal which producers succeeded. The best examples are still complex and alluring, where the high acidity is balanced by a wide range of aromas, from brioche to stone fruit. Unfortunately, some other bottlings show only residual acidity, resulting in unbalanced and tart wines.
I recall opening a glorious bottle of 1996 Cristal for my son's birth seven years ago; the wine was still vibrant and charged.
Another fabulous example was made by Krug. As Olivier Krug said, "It’s a year where a good house or a good winemaker will make a good wine... It’s a tricky vintage." Other industry professionals have shared similar sentiments, noting that some vintners either opted out of making a vintage bottling or failed to achieve balance, resulting in wines that are already clumsy or tired.
The 1996 vintage often draws comparisons to its predecessor, 1995. These were the last two great Champagne vintages following the 1988, 1989, and 1990 trio. The 1996s are powerful wines; the best combine weight from ripeness with tension from acidity, providing the interest, complexity, and structure needed for long-term aging.
Interestingly, more houses released 1995 as a vintage Champagne than 1996, with a ratio of roughly 60% (1995) to 40% (1996).
Given its unpredictability, the safest bet for 1996 Champagne remains to go with producers you trust.
While looking for pictures of 1996 Champagne on my IPhone, I also found several other wines from various regions where the 1996 vintage truly shone, as seen in images below;jbgories
A WEEK OF BUBBLES FROM COAST TO COAST
La Fete du Champagne in Pictures
By Edouard
11/10/22
Edouard Bourgeois
November 11, 2022
It was great to see some of you last week and we are sorry to have missed the others. While we look forward to La Tablée this coming week, we wanted to share a few pictures from our team of a successful La Fete du Champagne.
Kicking things off in NYC at the excellent Gabriel Kreuther restaurant. Incredible menu and rare wines from Philipponnat.
Charles Philipponnat and Chef Gabriel Kreuther made everyone feel at home. Raj seems to agree.
Charles Philipponnat introduced us to his son Francois, standing, who already has the energy, humor and professionalism of his father.
The Philipponnats jumped on the plane to continue the festivities on the west coast. Here leading a seminar in LA!
Corinne and Anselme Selosse at my side after an incredible dinner. The wines were on a different planet. So was I…
Once in a life time dinner - Selosse!
Impeccable service from team Spago.
Jacquesson Lunch at Wally’s Santa Monica.
Raj and Peter Liem hard at work.
Probably the most photographed event of La Fete, the “Apéro” on the rooftop of hotel La Peer. The painted skies made for a memorable evening with the perfect music, French disco!
Caviar never fails!
Francois Philipponnat’s Photo Bomb Level: Expert
Not much Champagne left!
Some of the wines tasted during the Vilmart seminar with Laurent Champs and his audience of sommeliers.
Another seminar, around the legendary wine of Cristal.
Every bottle was in perfect condition. Impressive lineup and a very attentive audience.
Rodolphe Peters, starring here at the Grand Tasting, under the Santa Monica sun.
Our team in LA, from left to right:
Jaime Dutton, Dan Swinehart, Max Goldberg Liu, Edouard Bourgeois, Raj Vaidya, Victoire Chabert.
Missing from the picture was Justine Puaud who is heroically taking care of her two babies, her dog and her husband at home!
And of course, Daniel Johnnes and Sally Johnnes. We missed you.