1996 in champagne. what happened?
by Edouard Bourgeois
November 21, 2025
Ratings for 1996 often use words like "exceptional" and "grandiose," with some comparisons to 1928. What made 1996 objectively unique was the high average potential alcohol (10.3%) combined with high total acidity (10g/litre)—figures rarely seen together. As Charles Philipponnat noted, this is a significant jump from the 9.3% potential alcohol common forty years prior.
Acidity and potential alcohol work together for balance, but typically, when one is high, the other is low. In 1996, both figures were high. Bruno Paillard called it a 'naughty boy' vintage due to its unpredictable nature and the anxiety it caused producers while waiting for acidity levels to drop. However, the result for those with patience is "fantastic."
While acidity is key for aging, the true test is time. Over two decades later, the remaining 1996 bottles reveal which producers succeeded. The best examples are still complex and alluring, where the high acidity is balanced by a wide range of aromas, from brioche to stone fruit. Unfortunately, some other bottlings show only residual acidity, resulting in unbalanced and tart wines.
I recall opening a glorious bottle of 1996 Cristal for my son's birth seven years ago; the wine was still vibrant and charged.
Another fabulous example was made by Krug. As Olivier Krug said, "It’s a year where a good house or a good winemaker will make a good wine... It’s a tricky vintage." Other industry professionals have shared similar sentiments, noting that some vintners either opted out of making a vintage bottling or failed to achieve balance, resulting in wines that are already clumsy or tired.
The 1996 vintage often draws comparisons to its predecessor, 1995. These were the last two great Champagne vintages following the 1988, 1989, and 1990 trio. The 1996s are powerful wines; the best combine weight from ripeness with tension from acidity, providing the interest, complexity, and structure needed for long-term aging.
Interestingly, more houses released 1995 as a vintage Champagne than 1996, with a ratio of roughly 60% (1995) to 40% (1996).
Given its unpredictability, the safest bet for 1996 Champagne remains to go with producers you trust.
While looking for pictures of 1996 Champagne on my IPhone, I also found several other wines from various regions where the 1996 vintage truly shone, as seen in images below;jbgories
What's Pressoir Drinking
Nebbiolo under the radar
By Edouard
10/7/21
by Edouard Bourgeois
October 7, 2021
Nebbiolo under the radar
During La Paulée, we set up a wine dinner entitled “Les Petits des Grands” where we poured the most modest, lowest ranked appellations, from the very best producers. The idea was to highlight the importance of the producer and their ability to produce superior wines, even from vineyards that don’t get the same recognition as Grands Crus and Premiers Crus. Some of these fruits may be planted “on the wrong side of the road”, on a slope that doesn’t receive as much sunlight as its neighbor, or from a spot that is geographically just outside but next to the star studded strip of the Côte d’Or.
Last week, I opened this bottle from one of my favorite Italian producers, Produttori, a true legend of Piedmont with an incredibly heritage and history.
The wine was absolutely wonderful. I love the Langhe wines. In Piedmont, the northern Italian region that borders French Alps, Barolo and Barbaresco reign suprême but the underdog appellation Langhe may provide an irresistible pleasure of crunchy ripe cherries that I adore. Tannins are gentler in Langhe also. That means a younger vintage offers more charm than a sturdier Barolo in its teenage years. Produttori has been making wine since. Mostly Barbaresco and a specialist in single vineyards. I have been impressed by the superb finesse of both old and young wines from that esteemed producer. Another thing I want to share as a sommelier secret, although I guess I’m not the first one to spill the beans, is the relative affordability of these wines. Now, of course when Produttori makes a Langhe, it’s with the same level of care, passion and nurturing they would give their famous Barbaresco cuvées, and it shows.
