1996 in champagne. what happened?
by Edouard Bourgeois
November 21, 2025
Ratings for 1996 often use words like "exceptional" and "grandiose," with some comparisons to 1928. What made 1996 objectively unique was the high average potential alcohol (10.3%) combined with high total acidity (10g/litre)—figures rarely seen together. As Charles Philipponnat noted, this is a significant jump from the 9.3% potential alcohol common forty years prior.
Acidity and potential alcohol work together for balance, but typically, when one is high, the other is low. In 1996, both figures were high. Bruno Paillard called it a 'naughty boy' vintage due to its unpredictable nature and the anxiety it caused producers while waiting for acidity levels to drop. However, the result for those with patience is "fantastic."
While acidity is key for aging, the true test is time. Over two decades later, the remaining 1996 bottles reveal which producers succeeded. The best examples are still complex and alluring, where the high acidity is balanced by a wide range of aromas, from brioche to stone fruit. Unfortunately, some other bottlings show only residual acidity, resulting in unbalanced and tart wines.
I recall opening a glorious bottle of 1996 Cristal for my son's birth seven years ago; the wine was still vibrant and charged.
Another fabulous example was made by Krug. As Olivier Krug said, "It’s a year where a good house or a good winemaker will make a good wine... It’s a tricky vintage." Other industry professionals have shared similar sentiments, noting that some vintners either opted out of making a vintage bottling or failed to achieve balance, resulting in wines that are already clumsy or tired.
The 1996 vintage often draws comparisons to its predecessor, 1995. These were the last two great Champagne vintages following the 1988, 1989, and 1990 trio. The 1996s are powerful wines; the best combine weight from ripeness with tension from acidity, providing the interest, complexity, and structure needed for long-term aging.
Interestingly, more houses released 1995 as a vintage Champagne than 1996, with a ratio of roughly 60% (1995) to 40% (1996).
Given its unpredictability, the safest bet for 1996 Champagne remains to go with producers you trust.
While looking for pictures of 1996 Champagne on my IPhone, I also found several other wines from various regions where the 1996 vintage truly shone, as seen in images below;jbgories
Escapades in France
August 17, 2020
By Justine Puaud
The old saying that "a shoemaker’s children are the worst shod" comes to mind….I lived 23 years in one of the most beautiful countries in the world but never traveled all around it… Because of Covid-19, I had to spend almost 4 months in France from May to August. It was truly a chance to spend so much time there that I didn’t want to miss the opportunity to visit some beautiful regions.
BURGUNDY
I dropped off my suitcase in Brion, a tiny village next to Chablis. Our parents always say we don’t eat French food in New York so I had to eat all the traditional French dishes for the next few days: veal stew (blanquette de veau), cassoulet, boeuf bourguignon, beef on the string. And, because it was not enough and also because my sister in law is a pastry chef at Le Flocon de Sel, I ate all the different desserts you can imagine: Saint-Honoré, fraisier (strawberry cream cake), rice pudding, Paris-Brest. Then, I hit the road and went to Nuits-Saint-Georges and Beaune. I stayed in the beautiful Château de Comblanchien, on RN74, the road of the Grand Crus; the chateau dominates the village. It’s owned by the family of the winemaker Camille Thiriet, who has her garage and cellar next to it. The Burgundians know how to welcome people generously. The first day we went to see our dear friend Didier Fornerol in Corgoloin. We spent 3 hours in his cellar talking and tasting. He opened a 1999 Côte de Nuits Villages and a 2009 Rue des Foins, which were fabulous. If you haven’t met Didier or Camille at La Paulée, you should definitely make a stop at their tables at the Verticals Tasting or the Grand Tasting. The next day, I went to see Lola Taboury-Bize who just opened her restaurant Le Soleil in Savigny-lès-Beaune. Her Japanese chef Taka cooks delightful Japanese and French cuisine. We finished the day with a convivial dinner with some of the “NextGen” of Burgundy: Camille Thiriet and Etienne Julien.
VENDÉE
I grew up in Vendée. This region is located between Brittany (la Bretagne) and Gironde (Bordeaux). When I can, I always like to spend a weekend in Ile d’Yeu. Ile d’Yeu is the longest island on the Atlantic coast. It only takes 30 min to reach the island by boat. I rented a bike and enjoyed the charms of the wild coastline listed as a "natural site".
CHAMPAGNE
I discovered Champagne in New York with Daniel Johnnes and Peter Liem. I learned that the notion of terroir doesn’t only exist in Burgundy but also in this iconic region. I visited a friend who truly believes in the diversity of terroirs in Champagne - Alexandre Chartogne of Chartogne-Taillet. Before taking over the estate in 2007, he worked a few years with Anselme Selosse. This top winemaker is a mentor to Alex. He gave him the taste and curiosity to make single-vineyard wines. Since then, Alex has turned Chartogne-Taillet into one of the most exciting producers in Champagne today. We tasted two of his fantastic cuvées:
- Les Couarres is made of 100% Pinot Noir. This full bodied wine expresses Pinot Noir with subtlety and finesse.
- Les Heurtes Bises is made of 100% Chardonnay. This parcel expresses a Chardonnay with generous depth and racy structure.
Don’t forget that good wines always rhyme with delicious food! We went to two hotspots in Reims and had fabulous culinary experiences.
L’Assiette Champenoise
I had the chance to discover Chef Arnaud Lallement’s cuisine at La Fête du Champagne in NY. If you attended the Gala Dinner of La Fête 2019, you must remember his “Sole épaisse cuite au plat, Caviar Kaviari, Coteaux Champenois”. At L’Assiette Champenoise, there is always a story behind each dish. Chef designs his menu around Champagne and with people who share the same passion for outstanding cuisine.
Racine
Chef Kazuyuki Tanaka is from Japan and produces French cuisine strongly inflected with influences from his native country. It was a delicious explosions of flavors!
SWITZERLAND (LAKE GENEVA & LAUSANNE)
We spent all weekend with our dear friend and sommelier Edmond Gasser. Edmond is the head sommelier of the 2 Michelin star restaurant of Chef Anne-Sophie Pic and was recently elected “Sommelier of the Year” by Gault & Millau. Thanks to him we discovered hidden treasures of Swiss wines like Domaine Wannaz, Epesses Grand Cru, Tour de Chenaux, a terrific 100% Chasselas.
Check my article about Lavaux vineyard.
MEGEVE
I always went to the Alps during the winter season. It is also a fabulous place to go for some summer adventure. As I mentioned, my sister in law is one of the pastry chefs at Le Flocon de Sel. The Relais & Chateau hotel looks like a traditional Savoie mountain chalet and overlooks the valley. If you don’t stay for dinner, which you should, I would recommend you have a glass of wine and watch the sunset on the terrace. Chef Emmanuel Renaud also owns a bistro, The Flocons Village. We had dinner there one night and enjoyed a more simple and delicious cuisine with delightful wines from Domaine des Ardoisières. This well-known biodynamic domaine has 17 acres of vineyards which are planted on steep, rocky slopes. The entire production is sourced from two single vineyard sites and five different cuvées using the area’s unique varietals, including Altesse, Jacquère, Mondeuse, Gamay and Persan.
