1996 in champagne. what happened?

 
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by Edouard Bourgeois
November 21, 2025

Ratings for 1996 often use words like "exceptional" and "grandiose," with some comparisons to 1928. What made 1996 objectively unique was the high average potential alcohol (10.3%) combined with high total acidity (10g/litre)—figures rarely seen together. As Charles Philipponnat noted, this is a significant jump from the 9.3% potential alcohol common forty years prior.

Acidity and potential alcohol work together for balance, but typically, when one is high, the other is low. In 1996, both figures were high. Bruno Paillard called it a 'naughty boy' vintage due to its unpredictable nature and the anxiety it caused producers while waiting for acidity levels to drop. However, the result for those with patience is "fantastic."

While acidity is key for aging, the true test is time. Over two decades later, the remaining 1996 bottles reveal which producers succeeded. The best examples are still complex and alluring, where the high acidity is balanced by a wide range of aromas, from brioche to stone fruit. Unfortunately, some other bottlings show only residual acidity, resulting in unbalanced and tart wines.

I recall opening a glorious bottle of 1996 Cristal for my son's birth seven years ago; the wine was still vibrant and charged.

Another fabulous example was made by Krug. As Olivier Krug said, "It’s a year where a good house or a good winemaker will make a good wine... It’s a tricky vintage." Other industry professionals have shared similar sentiments, noting that some vintners either opted out of making a vintage bottling or failed to achieve balance, resulting in wines that are already clumsy or tired.

The 1996 vintage often draws comparisons to its predecessor, 1995. These were the last two great Champagne vintages following the 1988, 1989, and 1990 trio. The 1996s are powerful wines; the best combine weight from ripeness with tension from acidity, providing the interest, complexity, and structure needed for long-term aging.

Interestingly, more houses released 1995 as a vintage Champagne than 1996, with a ratio of roughly 60% (1995) to 40% (1996).

Given its unpredictability, the safest bet for 1996 Champagne remains to go with producers you trust.

While looking for pictures of 1996 Champagne on my IPhone, I also found several other wines from various regions where the 1996 vintage truly shone, as seen in images below;jbgories

Other Justine Puaud Other Justine Puaud

Welcome to our new team member Victoire Chabert!

February 24, 2022

Please give a warm welcome to our new team member Victoire Chabert!

Growing up between Meursault and the French Riviera, Victoire has close family ties on her mother’s side to Domaine Buisson-Charles. 

Once acquired by his winegrowing grandparents and now run by her cousin Louis, oenologist , her aunt and uncle, the familial Domaine Buisson-Charles has been cultivating parcels of land in the Meursault area for several generations, supplementing them with wines from Volnay, Pommard, Corton and Chambertin for its red wines as well as Chassagne-Montrachet, Puligny-Montrachet, Chablis Premier Cru and Grand Cru, Pouilly-Fuissé and Corton-Charlemagne for its white wines.

Victoire decided to start her professional career in the wine industry and honor her family's work on the other side of the Atlantic after obtaining her Master's Degree in International Management. 

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